Why I use Tuscan vegetable-tanned leather
I want to buy and use hides that respect nature, animals, landscapes and people. That is why I signed the manifesto of the Genuine Vegetable-Tanned Leather Consortium (Pelle Conciata al Vegetale in Toscana), and why most of my leather comes from Tuscany.
What vegetable tanning is
Tanning turns a raw hide into a stable, durable material. Most leather today is tanned with chromium salts, which is fast and cheap. Vegetable tanning uses tannins extracted from tree bark and other plants instead. It takes weeks rather than days, but it gives a firm leather that ages beautifully, develops a patina and is pleasant to cut, tool and burnish.
If you are wondering how this compares with synthetic alternatives, read leather vs vegan leather.
What the consortium commits to
The consortium gathers tanneries located along the Arno river, between Florence and Pisa. Its manifesto lists ten commitments. In short:
- Made in Tuscany. The tanneries work within a single production district, organised to limit its impact on the environment.
- Quality controls. Member tanneries are regularly checked against the production rules by an independent body, ICEC, the quality certification institute for the leather sector.
- Metal free. The tanning process uses no metals, only natural tannins.
- No animal is killed for its skin. The hides come from cattle raised for the food industry, on European farms subject to EU animal welfare law. Tanning gives value to a by-product that would otherwise be waste.
- Natural raw materials. Plant tannins come from renewable sources.
- Environmental certification. The Tuscan tanning district is certified under EMAS, the European eco-management and audit scheme.
- Social responsibility. The consortium follows the ISO 26000 guidelines on social responsibility.
- Compliance with standards. Members comply with European and Italian regulations on health, species protection and heritage.
- Work ethic. Health and safety rules, contracts and wages are respected, without discrimination.
- Circular economy. Wastewater is treated in shared plants, and waste from each step becomes raw material for other industries.
The full text is available on the consortium’s website.
What it changes for your projects
You do not need Tuscan leather to start leathercraft. But if you choose a vegetable-tanned leather from a traceable source, your piece will be more durable, easier to repair and will age with character. My patterns are designed and tested with this kind of leather, and each one tells you the thickness I recommend.